London’s finest, according to Michelin
Every February, Michelin redraws its own culinary map for Great Britain and Ireland. Some retain a star, some gain one, some lose one and some newcomers celebrate their very first. This year’s Michelin Guide Ceremony, hosted in Dublin, saw some of my favourite meals of 2025 win a star.
The winners
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Mayfair stays at the top of its game. The modern Bonheur by Matt Abé and Row on 5, known for British heritage reimagined, are celebrating jumping from one to two stars this year. What constitutes the promotion? Dishes that have architecture, sauces and seasoning at a flawless level, immaculate pacing of meals, and almost every course has to land.
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Ambassadors Clubhouse — the upscale Punjabi in Mayfair set to rival two-star Gymkhana.
Corenucopia — Clare Smyth’s latest endeavour is a luxurious Chelsea bistro with earliest reservations available in April, if you’re lucky. Smyth is known as the first female chef in the UK to be awarded three stars with her restaurant, Core.
The Kerfield Arms — the second Michelin-star pub in London in Camberwell with a £12 lunch deal and sister pub to Islington’s The Baring.
Labombe by Trivet — Fire-led cuisine and a refined European wine list at Mayfair’s iconic Old Park Lane.
Legado — Inland Spanish cooking Nieves Barragán Mohacho, the mind behind Sabor (which also retained its star).
Michael Caines at The Stafford — Modern European cuisine by an MBE.
Restaurant Gordon Ramsay High — A meal for a skyline view of London.
Somssi by Jihun Kim — A 14-set chef’s table serving a Korean-inspired tasting menu at The Mandarin Oriental.
Tom Brown at The Capital — Inspired by the waters and fields of Cornwall, in Knightsbridge.
Our pick: Legado
I went to Legado back in September and I often think about this meal time and time again. Light, comforting & indulgent. Legado is regional Spanish food and Chef Nieves Barragán Mohacho is an artiste in full flight. Pressure might be on with her Michelin success, but there is no sign of fear nor playing it safe. When someone has this much culinary muscle to flex, you really wish you can take a peek inside their creative mind.
Who was snubbed?
Moi — Soho’s Japanese-inspired grill and omakase bar. I visited back in September to review, and will often rank this in my top 3 meals of 2025. A crescendo of flavours that come up in waves synchronised with the music.
The best plates? Smoked cod’s roe with fried steamed buns, tempura lobster claw, bluefin tuna tataki.
Lilibet’s — the former birthplace of Queen Elizabeth II turned seafood restaurant. I reviewed this back in November and was awestruck by the sheer diversity of choice and execution of flavour alongside the multi-faceted decor. In a city of minimalistic, oversimplified menus and interiors, Lilibet’s shows why being unabashedly over the top is timeless.
The best plates? Tuna belly, crab tart, baked rice with Spanish prawns.
Osteria Angelina — An Italian and Japanese fusion powerhouse in Shoreditch. I had quite a few gripes with the sticky service back when I reviewed during opening fortnight. No doubt this was what prevented them from winning a star.
The best plates? Truffle and kombu tortellini — the best pasta dish I had in 2025.