Lilibet’s, Mayfair
Image credit: Lilibet’s (via lilibetsrestaurant.com)
In a city filled with minimalistic, oversimplified menus and interiors, Lilibet’s shows why being unabashedly over the top is timeless.
Perfect for
Seafood lovers | Sharing plates | Seekers of style AND substance | Elegant dining | Date nights | Intimate dinners
About
Lilibet’s sits on the footprint of a Mayfair townhouse with rare historical weight – this was the birthplace of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II. Now, a seafood restaurant and oyster bar by Ross Shonhan – formerly executive chef at Nobu and Zuma, and founder of the ramen brand Bone Daddies. The menu, designed to be shared, is built around three distinct pillars: raw fish (crudo and sashimi-style), pasta & rice dishes, and wood-fire grill specials.
Atmosphere & Service
The minute you’re about to walk in and are greeted by the doorman, front of house and lush interiors – you know you’re in for a treat. The atmosphere is low-lit and intimate. My immediate grasp of the interior and decor (undertaken by Russell Sage Studio) was pure British and French dynasty. Intricate boning, detailed ceilings and flickers of gold that take you to a palace in Versailles (I left with the cleanest pearly whites thanks to the tooth floss in the bathroom – one so decadent it could rival Carbone’s). At the same time, the ceiling fans, lamp shades, and lighting emulated a hot summer’s day by the porch in New Orleans. I also took note of very subtle nautical elements throughout. Maybe it was sentimental of me to assume given the context of the place, but I couldn’t help but make the connection to the late Queen Elizabeth II’s commonwealth legacy – one that spanned across many oceans.
I am slightly taken out of the illusion, however, when I notice my table is decorated in drawings that nod to East Asia (I assume? – I asked the host more on this but they weren’t sure either). I think at one point I realised the references become slightly muddled. Clashes like this would be more forgivable in an East London setting that loves to break rules. Regardless – it is grand and a perfect spot for Mayfair.
We were served by a kind woman who put in great effort and patience as she walked us through the entire menu and its tripartite. No boasting was needed to oversell the delights we were about to experience, just a sense of calm that the food will do the talking. We also had a dedicated bar team that came over to calibrate the best white wine pairing with our feast – again, with such an extensive amount of choice, the team was patient. It was a Tuesday evening, but you wouldn’t be able to tell – it was bustling and packed. Little teething things such as forgotten refreshment towels are easily forgiven, unless your aspirations are for Michelin approval.
What we ate
Anchovy Eclair
A snack? More like a tiny nibble. The parfait is incredibly rich and sets the tone for what is to come – although I thought the proportion of the eclair could have been slightly bigger for some balance to the intensity.
Ancient Grain Pitta
An average pitta that comes with three dips. A spiced tomato salsa, a silk worker's brain (that has a minty kick) and a mid green chilli taramasalata that lacks tang.
Crab Tart
A tiny, cold pea with a very thin crisp that you wish stays in your mouth way longer.
Tuna Belly
Stellar tuna quality that’s amazingly paired with a vibrant gazpacho – it gives an acidic kick and a late sizzle. The crunchy little pickled onion on top adds some dimension, too.
Squat Lobster
Lobster in the form of a fluffy cloud. Contrasingly cold with a warm, smoky broth. Intense and full-bodied if you like that – I could only have a couple bites. Part of the ‘unsung heroes’ section of the menu dedicated to underappreciated species of our oceans.
Ricotta Agnolotti
Melt in your mouth pasta that you lather with a silky lemon butter.
Baked Rice with Spanish Prawns
Light and refreshing with a zing of saffron.
Lilibet’s Mash
Their special mash is velvet personified. The lobster and shellfish bisque gives it that unique stamp.
Normandy Carrot
So simple but so good. Soaked in a tarragon butter that pairs perfectly with my mash and beef.
Aged Beef Fillet
No notes. Perfection.
Chocolate Mousse
Amazing dark chocolate intensity with cacao nibs for texture and a tuile crust that you break through to get to the goodness. One of the best I’ve tried in London that doesn't rely on the usual salt / caramel to give it lift.
In summary
Spectacle rightfully brings trepidation. But Lilibet’s is not here for face value. In fact, I would say more attention to detail is rightfully paid to the plate rather than the decor – making it near perfection and a welcome addition to Mayfair’s list of elegant dining spots.
Lilibet’s
17 Bruton Street, Mayfair, London W1J 6QB
020 3828 8388
lilibetsrestaurant.com
A refined seafood and grill destination with a tripartite menu: raw fish, pasta and rice, wood-fire grill.
Mains from approx. £38–£75; raw fish plates from around £26. Dinner service Tue–Sat (lunch Wed–Sat). Reservations recommended.
Dress code: Smart, but I would recommend elegant.