MOI, Soho
I can’t find a more perfect analogy to describe the dining experience at Moi other than a great night out at a rave. From the music and atmosphere to the crescendo of flavours that come up in waves before a gentle landing to end the night. You are taken on a journey - one so addictive you’ll promise to come back and do it all over again.
Perfect for
Intimate date nights | Creative industry catch-ups | Stylish group dinners | Anniversaries & milestones | Food-led evenings
Moi is the debut from MAD Restaurants, led by Gordon Ramsay alum Andy Cook and chef Nick Tannett (ex-Evernight). Split across two floors on Wardour Street, it pairs Japanese-inspired cooking with British produce, sushi counter, and late-night listening bar. It arrives as London leans into multi-space dining: part restaurant, part after-hours scene.
Atmosphere
As you step inside, you’re greeted by a faded pink interior, soft lighting and tropical accents that would make you think you’re at a Mexican-inspired restaurant at first instance. It’s pulled off really well and I’m glad to see something other than the usual Japandi design abundant in the city. The music is faint, but the BPM sets the tone alongside an inviting but not-overbearing front of house team. Lighting is precisely tuned so that each table has a glow of brightness to illuminate the food in the centre whilst everywhere is left to a soft, intimate dimness. Two counters sit at the end of the floor that make an open plan kitchen. You feel a part of the action watching intricate touches to dumplings and bamboo fans herding sparks of flames and smoke away from the grill. To visit the grand bathroom and listening room, you must make your way down an architectural centre piece which is a spiral staircase that was very impressive but my favourite detail of all was that texture was everywhere - from the ceilings, walls, chairs and even tables. I could not help but wonder throughout the meal that this was by design, almost a precursor or a metaphor for the complex flavours held in these four(ish) walls. The only misstep is outside - the view onto Wardour Street adds little, and a curtain wouldn’t go amiss to block the view of delivery vans parking alongside.
What we ate
Smoked Cod’s Roe, Chilli, Fried Steamed Buns
The first plate and what an insane start. Immediately leapt out a wow. I ended up using the cod roe as my dip for my sourdough. The flavours took me back to nostalgic memories of eating smoked fish with a beer.
Tempura Lobster Claw, Curry Emulsion
One each was not enough.
Bluefin Tuna Tataki, Karashi Miso, Grapefruit
Tender bluefin tuna prepared tataki style melts in your mouth whilst the grapefruit is immediately sharp and explosive - it brings you to the edge of your tastebuds. So beautifully paired with baked rice that you close up with the seaweed bed when grabbing that last bite.
Tuna Trio Nigiri
Subtle, soft, gentle, with a mighty sizzle as it leaves your tongue.
Hispi Cabbage, Shiitake Mushroom, Fried Ginger Dressing
If you were blindfolded you might think it’s almost a meat dish with subtle slices of mushroom sandwiched in between layers of red cabbage drenched in ginger dressing that elevates such a simple vegetable into something really yummy.
Baked Rice, Scottish Girolles, Cacklebean Egg
Total comfort food! You mixed the yolk and make this sticky concoction. I wouldn’t be opposed to a slight bit of seasoning here and there, but still amazing.
Sladesdown Duck Dumplings, Bone Broth, Wasabi Duck Fat
We finished with this dish and I wondered if it was intentional. We’ve experienced such a high throughout the experience that this was the perfect way to bring your journey to an end with something so homely and grounding.
Chocolate Mousse
A little encore to our meal that was scooped up very quickly between the two. Simple but great with some textured pieces.
Wine: Glass of Domaine Rougeot, Meursault Sous la Velle, 2022
Complex at first and then goes down just like butter.
Cocktail: Musk-have
Mezcal paired with a sharp ping of grapefruit flavours served on perfectly frozen glasses.
Service
Service was impressive - gentle, polite and every plate was delivered with care. We were open minded on trying something new and our waiter had impeccable knowledge of the wine ranges that he was able to recommend something by asking just a few questions. I’ve been to other openings early into their debut with far more chaotic service so I was very impressed with the harmony of the team. With open plan kitchens, there always runs the risk of a sometimes too transparent window into the tumultuous happenings of the kitchen, but the general vibe was cool, calm and collected - artists in their groove.
In summary
You know pretty easily when you’ve had not just unique flavours but an amazing experience. I hope I never become jaded like other food critics because this is what dining out is all about. As I left the space, I saw a couple curiously scanning the menu to see if it’s worth stepping in, their eyes drifted to me, almost to scan what the exiting party made of their meal. And by a gentle nod of approval and the smile on my face - that was all they needed to know to walk in.
MOI
84 Wardour Street, Soho, London W1F 0TQ
020 4628 0115
moirestaurant.com
Dress code: Smart casual
Lunch (Tue–Sat) 12–2.30pm
Dinner (Tue–Sat) 6–10pm
Sun 12.30–3.30pm
Closed Mon
Starters from £5, mains from £22, desserts from ~£12; drinks extra; 13.5% service charge