Legado, Shoreditch
Image credit: Photography by Milo Brown
Light, comforting & indulgent. Legado is regional Spanish food and Chef Nieves Barragán Mohacho is an artiste in full flight. Pressure might be on with her Michelin success, but there is no sign of fear nor playing it safe. When someone has this much culinary muscle to flex, you really wish you can take a peek inside their creative mind.
Perfect for
For genuinely amazing food | Long, unhurried dinners | Wine-led evenings with friends | Celebrations with substance over show | Curious eaters exploring Spain beyond tapas
About
Legado is Nieves Barragán Mohacho’s return to centre stage after shaping Barrafina in its early days and earning a Michelin star for Sabor. Where Sabor celebrated Spain’s coastal cooking, Legado looks inland to various Spanish regional influences. Housed in Montacute Yards, Shoreditch, it’s a calmer, more grown-up room built for long, serious meals rather than a quick dash for tapas. It’s Mohacho staking her legacy on depth over spectacle.
Atmosphere & Service
Oftentimes, photos do not do justice to the interior, however I was pleasantly surprised with the inviting feel when walking in thanks to the warm and considerate evening lighting. The furniture and design on the other hand does not bring much inspiration - there is a clashing mix of bathroom-esque tiles, exposed brick with wooden counter tops and Japandi chairs. At times it’s not quite sure of who it wants to look like, a result of sometimes drawing from too many Pinterest-esque trends. There is certainly room to be bolder and more atmospheric - this is all about Spanish flair, after all. That said, it’s the feeling evoked that matters and by walking in, I immediately know that work is finished and I am ready to enter into a spot of leisure.
We sat at the counters facing the open plan kitchen with Chef Mohacho and her team locked in focus for a busy Tuesday evening. Prime seats at the house! We love to, what I call, ‘kitchen-watch’ - watching excellence unfold in front of our eyes with nothing but respect and adoration. Immediately, we take note of the delicate care taken to maintain excellence and attention to detail - staff members picking off excess clumps off tempura and long stems of leaves sliced off to retain a perfect crunch.
We were served by a lovely waitress who, throughout the night, was very sweet. I love being served by folk that have tried the food and can tell you’re in for a great night but don’t need to shout about it or overpromise. In true Shoreditch fashion, orders are handwritten with a white marker on the wooden counter in front of you. The Michelin team might be eager-eyed to visit sooner than later so a couple fixes on refilling drinks promptly and taking empty plates should be a core focus.
What we ate
3-sip serves of Beetroot, Rum + Melon & Grape, Tequila
An amuse bouche to open the palette. The Beetroot did just that.
Image credit: Photography by Milo Brown
Monkfish Tempura, Chilli Jam Alioli
This was a really great start - light and fluffy monkfish with no excess batter. The chilli jam alioli gives it a lift with its sweet kiss.
Pan con Tomate, Cecina
Initially you’d think this would be the most basic Spanish staple - nope. It’s elevated, no soggy tomato base in sight and the cecina provides a rich and smoky flavour.
Cantabrian Anchovy, Smoked Cheese, Brioche
A fluffy cloud atop a crisp brioche which was indulgent. The anchovy was subtle and added a lot to a simple dish - it wasn’t overpowering that even a sceptic to that palette should give it a try.
Legado Sandwich
It’s like an interpretation of a ham and cheese sandwich that has the same amount of comfort but is so much more crisp. It feels like home without the heaviness thanks to the leaves and balsamic glaze to lighten it up. I would add a little more ham flavour to come through and a little less moisture to make this even better.
Grilled Artichoke, Almond Sauce
Wow - a real highlight. Soft, gentle artichoke with a light hummus-y texture of the almond sauce. What takes it to another level is the dill oil that takes me to another place. There’s something that reminds me of home and if I would have three more plates I would have.
Arroz de Cangrejo
I am a little sceptical of crab but this made me really smile. Think paella with crab tempura atop creamy and indulgent rice - swept up in one breath. What a closer!
Chocolate Cheesecake
A rich, dark chocolate with sprinkles of salt that tickle the tongue.
Churros, Dulce de Leche
London, take note. Churros is notoriously poorly done in this city - but not here. This is exactly how it should be - not doughy, not heavy or oily and definitely not paired with a sickly sweet chocolate sauce. There’s an airy-ness and subtle sweetness that closes the night on a real high.
In summary
Whilst all of the dishes take you to different regions across Spain, the most impressive commonality between them was the lightness maintained. We never once felt heavy or over-burdened with oil that can sometimes happen with indulgent Spanish food. It’s a true testament to Chef Mohacho who has been adventurous with reinventing classics not to a point of spectacle. There is a lot of depth here that I haven’t had in a long time - even in Spain. An extra potency of flavour for a dish or two could be considered alongside some tweaks to service but we left the restaurant with a big thank you to the chef and team. There is nothing but adoration for the pursuit of new creative endeavours despite how much success one has achieved. I wish a great future for Legado and look forward to coming back.
Legado
1C Montacute Yards, 185-186 Shoreditch High St, London E1 6HU
020 3962 2700
legadorestaurants.com
Lunch (Tue–Sat) 12:00–14:30; Dinner (Tue–Sat) 17:30–22:30
Starters from ~£18; mains ~£35–£75; desserts & drinks extra; service charge included
Dress code: Smart casual