Poon’s at Somerset House, Strand
Image credit: Courtesy of Poon’s London
“This is where you will come if you don’t have a nice Chinese friend to cook for you” – Amy Poon
Perfect for
Lingering dinners | Dining at cultural landmarks | Traditional Chinese home cooking | Renaissance architecture | Comfort without heaviness
About
Poon’s is a name with history here in London. Bill Poon opened in 1970s Chinatown, later moving to Covent Garden, earning a Michelin star and attracting regulars like Barbra Streisand and Mick Jagger. The family retired the restaurants in the early 2000s.
Decades later, the revival comes through his daughter, Amy Poon, who has rebuilt the brand from the ground up: supper clubs, residencies, a run of sell-out pop-ups, and Poon’s Fine Foods, her line of exceptional small-batch sauces that now anchor much of her cooking. Now, a ten year lease at Somerset House – a fitting home just steps away where Amy spent her younger years watching her father in his stride. The food follows the same logic. Authentic Chinese home cooking.
Atmosphere & Service
After managing to work through the crowds of folk heading to the courtyard for some ice-skating and asking reception for directions, we head into the New Wing. But first, we walk through a string of conference rooms. Bin bags are laid out and open doors show empty cups of tea waiting to be cleared out. I am not sure how much you can pin this on Poon’s – but Somerset house could do better on more discrete housekeeping and better signage to set a good tone of what’s to come. After all, it’s in their best interest, too.
That said, the fluster is gone once you arrive at what feels like a secret pocket of the building, quietly tucked away. In an interview, Amy revealed that good feng shui was essential when scouring locations. The blush-pink walls with hand-drawn mountains, trees and dragons (atypical with ancient Chinese art) set the scene, whilst the structure of the drawing room evokes that homely feel from old British buildings. It feels like a romantic, but not performative, meeting point between Poon’s British upbringing and Chinese heritage.
Service is a combination of polite but unfussy. “Some might be surprised it’s [poussin] served cold” – refreshingly honest when asking about the menu. We catch Amy getting stuck in service, keeping a steady ship whilst making time to have a quick chat with diners and see how they’re doing. Plates are served at a good pace to allow for some chit chat. Too many places are serving at rapid speed these days – here you can really linger.
We were hopeful to have a Chinese lager with our meal – my favourite pairing. Alas, the closest we were offered, by the waiter, was an IPA brewed in Bermondsey – next to the Poon’s distribution warehouse where you can buy fine goods. Out of luck, Amy’s husband comes by and politely introduces himself. He tends to our need for a good pint with a German Bavarian that goes down a treat with a frozen glass.
What we ate
Potstickers
Vegetarian pan fried dumplings hand made by the chef. The dumplings had a nice silk on one side and fried on the other for a little crisp whilst the mouthful of stuffing was fresh and comforting.
San Choy Bao
Wind-dried bacon, minced pork, diced vegetables and pine nuts, served with crisp salad leaves. You self fill cold, crunchy leaves that nicely contrast with the warm filling. I can’t describe this other than just great home cooking. The more you have it, the better it gets.
Steamed Fish
The Highlight of the night. Whole seabass, steamed, with Poon’s premium first extract soy sauce, spring onion and ginger. Fall off the bone, melt-in-your mouth goodness. The fish was skin and bone within minutes.
White-Cut Poussin, Scallion Ginger Relish, Poon’s Extraordinary Chilli Oil
Traditionally served cold and on the bone – refreshing, light, perfect for a summer’s day that goes well with the chilli oil, which is the best in the biz.
Seasonal Greens
Served with garlic, a little moist.
Clay Pot Jasmine Rice
Fluffy. Can’t go wrong.
Pork Wonton with Dressing
A big, comforting hug followed up with a zap of vinegar.
In summary
There aren’t a lot of spots for homely Chinese that fall in that middle between high-end and takeaway. London desperately needs it. Here, it’s done authentically with elegance.
The Poon’s family legacy lives on to new heights and we hope to see a happy, long tenure at Somerset House.
Poon’s at Somerset House
New Wing, Somerset House, Lancaster Place, Strand, London WC2R 1LA
poonslondon.com
Chinese home-style cooking by Amy Poon.
Dishes from ~£8–£28; sharing plates and whole fish vary; service charge applies.
Open Tue–Sat 12–4PM & 5–10.30PM
Dress code: Smart-casual.