There’s lots going on in London-Land and the culinary world, beyond. Some great, some sad and some a cautionary tale.
London is always changing — and in my twenty-five years in this city, I have grown so accustomed to it that I have to stop myself and realise just how much the pace of change is becoming ever more rapid. Our institutions and governmental frameworks all point to private equity, IP and real estate as the city’s saving grace. But my biggest hope in the next decade is that the city’s sense of atmosphere and cultural relevance does not diminish. I hope to, as this newsletter grows, spotlight more faces and businesses who make their mark on the city because of their love for making something great. It’s in our best interests as consumers, and more importantly Londoners, to take that into our consideration when thinking where to make that next dinner reservation. Or else I fear that one day, our streets will be ridden with only Wagamamas and Dishooms for choice.
DakaDaka, Mayfair: Georgian cooking, homely spirit — Review
Image: Matt Hague
DakaDaka — a dive into Georgian cuisine with open-fire grilled dishes in spices and herbs you would find across Tbilisi and beyond. When apathy hits for the same old rolodex of cuisines in London, DakaDaka brings a welcome change to the palette alongside moments of needed refinement.
The New York Times exposé bound to make some chefs nervous
Image: Joachim Adrian
This week The New York Times dropped a story detailing dozens of physical and mental abuse allegations under the hands of René Redzepi at Noma — ranked the world’s best restaurant (Restaurant Magazine). This might not be surprising to some, given fine dining’s reputation being an industry not for the faint of heart. But as numerous sponsors, including American Express, drop out of Redzepi’s latest pop-up venture in Los Angeles — many chefs in London will, no doubt, be taking an introspective look at their leadership skills. A simple Reddit search and you can find similar stories from former colleagues at some of London’s most prestigious spots…
A week of goodbyes by some of London’s biggest names
Whether it’s a need of change or the crippling economic landscape in the hospitality sector, London’s ruthless machine never stops — no matter how long you’ve been around. This week Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, the two-Michelin-star restaurant announced they will be closing in January 2027. It marks a 14 year run that influenced a playful foray into fine dining with iconic dishes, in particular Meat Fruit.
Other closures announced include Club Gascon, the contemporary French restaurant open since 1998 who held a Michelin star for almost a quarter of a century, who will be closing their doors at the end of this month. The spot will be remembered by many as a trendsetter with their small plate concepts way before it became commonplace, today. After 9 years, Nest is also closing its doors at the end of the month. The Old Street spot is known for their commitment to produce from the British Isles, sustainable reared-meat, ethical seafood and organic vegetables.
From Athens to Mayfair
Maza, Mayfair | Now open
Image: Courtesy of Maza
Greek cuisine restauranteurs Adrien Carre and Christina Mouratoglou are no stranger to the dining scene in London. They’ve been around for a decade with Mazi and Suzi Tros in Notting Hill. This time round they’re bound for Mayfair, with a nostalgic concept inspired by 1980s Athenian tavernas, with fire-led cooking, generous sharing plates and an expansive Greek wine list. Some of the plates turning my head include the grilled lobster with lobster head bisque rice and the pistachio baklava ice-cream sandwich.
When Ireland meets Italy
Burro, Covent Garden | Now open
Image: Helen Cathcart
Burro is an Italian endeavour by Conor Gadd, chef and co-owner of Islington’s Trullo — who is looking to bring a design that honours part of his Irish country roots. It’s his first solo venture tucked away in Floral Court — previously home to the now closed Petersham Nurseries restaurant. Pasta dishes from tagliatelle duck and porcini ragu, roman fettuccine ‘alfredo’ and fried artichoke are some of the menu offerings — with British produce as the core.
In other news…
A new stage play written and directed by Quentin Tarantino has been confirmed in the works, titled The Popinjay Cavalier and expected to launch early 2027. So far, it’s been described as a “swashbuckling comedy” of deception and disguise set in 1830s Europe.
After BT Tower was sold to MCR Hotels (the company behind Soho House’s privatisation deal) for £275M back in 2024 — plans to turn the landmark into a boutique hotel are progressing with reports of architecture firm Orms now attached to the project.
Deliveroo, in collaboration with Addison Lee, are piloting an office catering service.