Motorino, Fitzrovia
London is one of the best dining cities in the world for reinterpretation. For some cuisines it’s easier than others. Italian? That can be a tricky one. It’s simple, classic, beloved. So if you want to stand out, you better spend a lot of time perfecting it. At Motorino, it feels like all of the great things in Italian cuisine are substituted for questionable choices.
Perfect for
People who love a handsome dining room and a good drink
Great steak
Pre-theatre convenience
Fans of “Italian-ish” more than Italian
About
Motorino arrives with a fair amount of expectation. Stevie Parle follows the momentum of Town, this time partnering with Luke Ahearne — the chef who steered Lita to a Michelin star in under a year. Kevin Armstrong (Satan’s Whiskers) handles the bar, signalling a serious drinks programme to match the room’s ambition.
The pitch is “London-Italian”: British and Irish produce channelled through an Italian frame, with Parle’s farm network at its core. A big idea — and a big dining room — aiming to give Fitzrovia its next destination address.
Atmosphere & Service
The space is large, covering 150 plus a bar and three private dining rooms. It’s 70s leaning, with round square coffered ceilings that add dimension. The walls and tables make up the brown primary colour palette whilst burgundy accents and tiny chrome finishes are very 2025 and elevate the space. Even the choice of translucent green glasses that lean against the red bar’s shelving create a striking contrast.
But the luxury is undercut by cheap, cafeteria-style counter seating and the music did not emulate the funk of the space, it was cold and uncomfortable, especially for a Saturday evening.
Service had great intention but some green waiters that made you feel like you had to perform to match their endearment. One of our starters never arrived, they brought the dessert menu but then tried to play it off that it’s on the way. I was sat beside the service station, so I was privy to the order being rushed through. It was not busy so I wasn’t sure why I was sat next to a corner with so much traffic and talk from the staff. I felt eyes on me as I ate yet the eyes never catered to refills of water or to being attentive.
What we ate
Rosita Negroni
Smooth, lovely bitter aftertaste and a smokiness so subtle it’s almost unnoticeable. I like the unique ice ball shape, too.
Fig Leaf Margarita
Served on frozen glasses, which never goes underappreciated. It came with agave and I was hoping it was not going to be too sweet. It wasn’t, great balance.
Wildfarmed Focaccia, rosemary, butter & olive oil
It’s a lovely, soft focaccia with a crispy top that helps break up the fluffiness. It has little drops of rosemary embellished inside and it’s served with a simple butter. It’s a tad too salty at times and the top is drenched in oil.
Chopped Dexter, fermented green chilli, porcini ketchup, shoestring fries
I like my salt. But the beef was so salty even I couldn’t finish it. Sodium Chloride.
Pappardelle, Wildfarmed beef ragù, pecorino
Less rich ragu, more basic bolognese. That said, the spag bowl tasted nice.
Rib-Eye 45-day Belted Galloway
It was tender, great texture and went down great with the peppercorn sauce we chose. Best plate of the night – but Italian? No. It’s an insurance dish for moments of doubt in the kitchen.
Pink Fir Potatoes, herb butter, porchetta spice
Overcooked flaking starch rather than the steaming fluffiness you’d expect on the inside and a hard texture on the outside. My table was swaying side to side trying to open the potato up.
Tomato Salad, shallots, sherry vinegar
My god, this was so ordinary I felt I could have done better if I had 2 minutes to throw some tomatoes, onions and vinegar in the house for a rush lunch. All that sauce and nothing but plain tomato – no zip, no zap, no vinegar.
Irish Whiskey Tiramisu
This was the nail in the coffin for our meal, unfortunately. How can you screw up tiramisu? This was one thin ladyfinger soaked in a bitter Irish whiskey topped with so much whipped cream it’s just a ball of nothing in your mouth. No layers, no balance, no fun.
In summary
No one roots against a new London restaurant, at least I would never, I think the city is better when ambition succeeds. That said, previous track record or PR dinners held the week before launch can’t substitute for good food.
Motorino wants to invent a London-Italian dialect, but it gets lost in oil, salt, starch and cream. I want to be taken on a ride that translates the vision of British/Irish produce with Italian inspiration from chef to plate. Here, there’s no clear regional anchor, it’s a borrowed accent, a cosplay for namesake, a Gino D’Acampo losing his mind at the concept of a British carbonara.
Motorino
1 Pearson Square, Fitzrovia, London W1T 3BF
020 3500 4221
motorino.london
Modern “London-Italian” à la carte.
Pastas from £14–£24; mains £24–£64; snacks and sides extra. Service charge applies.
Open Mon–Sat 12:00–15:00 & 17:00–22:30.
Dress code: Casual.