Mazarine, Mayfair: Robbed of a Michelin star! — Review

Set within the Mandarin Oriental Mayfair, Mazarine is a French seafood restaurant and the latest endeavour from restauranteurs Khaled Dandachi and Fred Srouchi (of Sparrow Italia). The brief leans coastal provenance — shaped by Thierry Laborde, who trained under Alain Ducasse at Le Louis XV in Monaco before playing a quiet role in London’s early ‘bistronomy’ scene with Chabrot Bistro d’Amis.

It’s a winter evening in London, which means only two things — grey skies and dark afternoons. Mazarine felt like a needed escape for the eyes. Designed by Brooklyn studio Bolt Builds, the space’s defining bones feel like an intentional articulation of the oceanic landscape with curvy, sculptural walls doing all the image painting needed. I notice the shimmering curtains, cascading pendants and the ceiling that feels like you’re in the midst of the ebbs and flows of the current. It’s bold but subtle all at the same time. Walking in just before the dinner rush begins, it’s peacefully quiet. The warm neutrals and soft golds retain that peace like feel without falling into the current day beige interior design tropes — all thanks to the touches of colour incorporated throughout hanging art work and the splashes of mediterranean blue at the base of the water glasses. Twentieth century French classics play in the background and what gets more immersive than a powerful seafood scent coming from Kitchen’s inventory of freshly caught produce.

We were looked after by a symphony of European waiters who were personable and made for nice conversation. I learnt that most had trained in French, Italian and Spanish hospitality. But I could already tell from the immaculate tablescaping and swift refreshing of plates, cutlery and glasses — they knew what effortless hosting should look and feel like. London, take notes. The resident sommelier left quite the impression, pairing a 2022 Gilles Morat Pouilly-Fuisse Aux Vignes Dessus — an oaky Burgundy chardonnay served in a wide base glass, giving ample space for the complex aromas to release.

You cannot go wrong starting with a toasted Brioche au Caviar d’Aquitaine. The Tartare de Thon, bluefin tuna tartare, came in excellent state and went down smoothly with a ten-year old Huille d’Olive Grandjean. We followed up with Les Escargots au Beurre d’Ail, light Burgundy snails melted in an insatiable French, herby butter and paired with a soft bread that I used to dip into the remaining juices.

For the main course, came out the Bar en Croûte de Sel — freshly caught sea base that arrived just a couple hours before our reservation. This is the main theatre piece of the night as the waiter prepared the plating in front, intricately working through the encrusted sea salt casing and bones. The commitment to freshly caught produce and keeping it in the most optimum conditions comes through immediately with a gentle sizzle at the mouth. It’s so delicate but so flavourful, and the most memorable sea bass I have tried in London. We paired this with Chou Grillé avec Sauce Anchois — grilled savoy cabbage with an anchovy sauce that is silky and melts in your mouth. Alongside this, we ordered some Pomme Frites and I was taken aback. It is clear that no expenses are spared when every serving of French fries comes with a change of oil, delivering some of the freshest fries I have in my three decades of this city.

We close the night with two desserts to share. La Russe Biarritz, a hazelnut sponge cake with praline cream — nutty and plush. And the Tarte Tropézienne, a halved brioche filled with a vanilla crème fraîche — subtle, delicate and the quality of the vanilla seeps through. Both desserts are memorable, not overly sweet but indulgent. It’s a reminder why French pâtisserie, and technique as a whole, remains the blueprint.

Mazarine, Mayfair
Attire: Smart, elegant, chic
££££