Crisp at The Marlborough, Mayfair
(Image credit: Courtesy of The Marlborough/Crisp Pizza)
Opening day of Crisp at The Marlborough, Mayfair’s pub under new management, came with a hectic three hour wait. Whilst the pizza tastes great – I, like many true Londoners, don’t have three to five hours a day to twiddle my thumbs in a queue.
Crisp W6 was the epitome of a place that did not serve the local community — Crisp at The Marlborough has an opportunity to change this.
Perfect for
Great pizza options | Post-work slices and a cold Guinness upstairs
About
Crisp Pizza started with Carl McCluskey in a backstreet Hammersmith pub with no culinary pedigree – just a three-week course, a loan, and an obsession fuelled by Lucali videos on YouTube. Next thing you know, Crisp W6 was making 500 pizzas a day. The Marlborough – a Mayfair site with pub bones dating back to 1758 – is the next home. The team behind celeb-fave pub, The Devonshire, backed McCluskey when his original partner pulled out, keeping the project independent rather than turning it into another big-group rollout. Upstairs stays a proper boozer; downstairs becomes Crisp.
Atmosphere & Service
Opening day proved that the team didn’t need to overspend on PR to achieve their ambitions of being a clout spot for TikTok fools to be seen — just name drop The Devonshire and create a Topjaw video. We arrived at 2pm thinking we’d dodged the lunch rush; but by the time the pizzas hit the table, the sun had set.
Upstairs, an ordinary boozer — nothing special. I can’t say much for downstairs, either — red sofa booths, brick walls, wobbly tables. Maybe I expected more for Mayfair, or even a bit of charm to the place. Toilets had paper everywhere and anyone over 6ft will have to crane their neck down to avoid a concussion. I did, however, appreciate the branded white tiling on the floor even though it stuck out like a sore thumb.
We were accidentally charged £14 for two bottles of sparkling water and we noticed only later in the day. But service was relatively good with all things that come on opening day.
The food
Vecna Pie – Gorgeous pepperoni, molten burrata, and a hot honey drizzle that stayed firmly in the background. Subtle, not sticky. Just enough sweetness to lift the fat without overpowering.
Nduja Pi: a tomato base you can taste has been simmering for hours, layered with buffalo mozzarella, parmesan, and a glug of Honest Toil extra virgin olive oil that’s unmistakably good. The basil hits with a herby, fresh punch. The nduja itself could use a little more smoke before the heat finally arrives.
Crunchy, not dough-y, crust.
Fresh, non-artificial tasting, garlic–herb dip.
Verdict
Having lived not far from the original Crisp in W6, I never actually tried a slice. I don’t have all the free time in the world and to be queuing hours on end for pizza, to me, is absolutely crazy. This is pizza. PIZZA. And I don’t have to wonder how many local Londoners have had the exact experience as myself. It’s come up in plenty of conversation, organically. How TikTok, and culprits like Topjaw, are having a negative impact on London. Why people want to gate-keep more than ever before. How menus and experiences are being developed for virality. There’s already a Reddit thread with people sharing experiences of a five hour wait.
A booking system is reportedly on the way, and it’s certainly a step in the right direction. And I would be wrong to not acknowledge that the pizza is great. No doubt. But I can’t help but leave Crisp at The Marlborough thinking existentially about the tired TikTok viral culture in this city rather than the food itself. I don’t think that’s on their list of problems judging by their Instagram page, filled with influencer reposts. But the tide is turning — hype culture is becoming synonymous with all the wrong things. And those who don’t adapt will become a glorified tourist spot in the city.
Crisp at The Marlborough
24 N Audley Street, Mayfair, London W1K 6WD
themarlboroughmayfair.com
Pizza served in the basement dining room; traditional pies from ~£12, bar pies from ~£16.
Upstairs pub open daily. Walk-ins expected; queues likely.
Dress code: Casual.