Carbone, Mayfair
Image credit: Douglas Friedman
Little is done to reinvent the wheel at Carbone, but why would you when you can just add steroids to American-Italian classics? Well, that depends on who you ask… Still, the Rat Pack atmosphere and knock-out service will certainly impress. And if you’re scouting for the next undiscovered face, the team at Carbone make the dream casting call.
Perfect for
Power lunches and client dinners | Big-night celebrations | Glamorous date nights | Big portion dinners | A dose of New York nostalgia | Stylish group dinners
About
Carbone is the signature creation of Major Food Group’s Mario Carbone, Rich Torrisi and Jeff Zalaznick - a trio who have turned their brand of theatrical, old-school dining into an international calling card. Since opening in New York in 2013, Carbone has become shorthand for celebrity-magnet glamour and mid-century nostalgia, now exported from Miami to Hong Kong. Its London debut marks a new chapter in the group’s steady global expansion at the former US Embassy turned 5-star hotel, The Chancery Rosewood.
Atmosphere & Service
As you make your way downstairs, the lighting becomes dimmer and every crevice becomes a hint of gold, marble or red velvet - pure Rat Pack meets Sinatra, New York nostalgia. The collection of Italiano contemporary artwork sprinkled around the dining room was the perfect spot to adore during moments of pause. No punches are pulled into making this place feel special.
You are greeted by a gorgeous front of house team who take you to your seat and again - you are greeted by a gorgeous waiter. You’ll realise pretty quickly that your eyes, too, will be in for a feast. Everyone looks like a model? My partner whispers to me. Clean-cut, neatly slick hair with precisely tailored suits, waiter whites and pretty bow ties for all. It takes me back to the early days of Abercrombie & Fitch or Joe & the Juice where aspiring models would be eager to work there in hopes of being scouted. Look no further here, casting agents.
You’re handed menus the size of a broadsheet newspaper, so big you can’t close it without a slight pivot to the side. It immediately sets the tone - this dining experience will be pure Americano theatre. As the waiter comes to explain the menu, he brings along a wooden box that is revealed to be a truffle humidor. When enticing you with some of the menu's best highlights wafts of rich truffle enter. It’s all just a giant play. My favourite feature of the night was what I called the ‘parmesan boy’ - a waiter holding a giant wheel of parmesan floating across the room ready to deposit a fresh set of shavings before you could ever raise a hand for more.
The service was attentive, not a whisker of my sparkling water went without a top-up. It was almost unnecessary, I had one sip and it was refilled almost immediately! But I guess that’s what makes Carbone, Carbone. The staff per head is very high so any request is merely a breath away before you’re attended to. That being said, some eaters might find copious numbers of waiters asking “how is the food?” throughout the meal to be slightly overbearing, despite all of their best intentions. High staff per head numbers always run the risk of that - but it’s an easy remedy. Given this was an opening fortnight meal, you couldn’t ask for slicker cohesion.
What we ate
Fresh Focaccia & Garlic Bread paired with Salami and Pickled Cauliflower
Beware and eat at your own risk! This beautiful cloud of focaccia and garlic bread (that comes free before you order) paired with rich salami and refreshing pickled cauliflower can quickly invite a full stomach when dining with small company. But as much as I encourage you to pace yourself, this combination is a treat.
Calamari Marco
This is always an order that comes with risk - sometimes even in the most established of places. It’s very rare that you’ll be wowed but at Carbone - this is a safe space for good calamari. It comes with a buttery, flavourful sauce that is poured freshly in front of your eyes - something you could scoop up with some leftover bread.
Whilst I’m sure the owner’s goals were to make the food ‘Instagram-able’, one tiny lamp in the corner was not enough lighting to capture the food in an attractive way
Caesar alla ZZ
Another thespian experience as your waiter comes to prepare a classic to excessive proportions of salad, sauce and parmesan.
The late Queen famously banned garlic from the kitchens of Buckingham Palace and despite being a garlic lover, I would too at Carbone. I was told that these giant squares of croutons are a highlight as it’s infused with very rich garlic and on the first bite it tastes great. Three bites in, however, it can get easily sickly for some. When concentrating this much garlic into a novelty, there isn’t much love spread elsewhere and next thing you know, you’re slightly conscious of your breath. It’s a clear intention to add those grand, Carbone touches to classics - but this is an example of why Coco Chanel always said to take one thing off before you leave the house.
Spicy Rigatoni Vodka
Sometimes viral food makes me trepidatious. Things get overhyped. Too much demand consumes any chance of good quality control. The kitchen becomes jaded, overproducing a dish to the point it loses any creative spark. But not here, at least for the time being. It holds up, silky and a relief to have a more individual sized portion. At this point I was already taking breaks to make room.
Image Credit: Noah Fecks
Veal Parmesan served with Potatoes Louie
I was told this was a popular dish. The lushious potatoes certainly elevated the flavours but oftentimes melted cheese/tomato atop meat can attract condensation and make the breadcrumbs more watery in texture. A little more crisp would go a long way.
Image Credit: Mario Carbone/Major Food Group/Hanna Lee Communications
Stracciatella Tiramisù
Or as I like to call it, the hedgehog Tiramisu. A spikey dome shape with crunchy chocolate bites inside for some texture - Carbone’s little stamp to a classic. What’s not to like? But do not order for one, this is a voluptuous hedgehog.
Cocktail: The Carbone Margarita
I do love to experiment with margaritas - this one came with an orange base, but this was weak and felt sickly after the liqueur settled. I later went to a classic for a better blanco kick.
In summary
Carbone is a great reminder to not take life too seriously in spots where the dress code might suggest otherwise. Exuberance and grandeur can go hand in hand with good food. The interior is certainly a place to impress and you feel a deep affection from the service. It certainly makes a great fit in the Carbone world map.
However, food must never be compromised in favour of spectacle - restraint and balance is key, especially in London where we do things with a little more subtlety. But under no circumstance must you mistake this with a glorified Big Mamma Group that we all know is just style and absolutely no substance - Carbone’s decadent theatre and service still make this a great night out for a grand occasion.
CARBONE
30 Grosvenor Square, Mayfair, London W1K 6AN
020 3900 1800
carbonelondon.com
Dinner (Tue–Sat) 4–10 pm; closed Sun & Mon
Starters from ~£30, mains up to ~£90; desserts & drinks extra; 15% service charge
Dress code: Dress for the occasion (no shorts, tanks or open-toed shoes)